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Rurrenabaque

Pampas Tour

sunny 28 °C
View south america on becs and terry's travel map.

There were so many tour companies in La Paz that it needed a bit of research. Jungle tours seemed to be more about the plants and involved trekking (which i wouldnt mind - but Terry is bored of trekking)!! The pampas tour we were assured there was no trekking - it was mainly boat trips and lots of wildlife so this is what we booked.

The next decision was how to get there..
40min flight for about £80 each way per person OR
20 hour bus ride, over part of death road for under £10 each.

20 hours - seemed like a long time seeing that is really is not that much distance between La Paz and Rurrenabaque:
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Having been advised that the bus journey back to La Paz could be quite dangerous (doing the dangerous part of the road in the dark and when drivers are most tired - we decided, in an effort to save money to get the bus there and a flight back.

The bus supposedly left La Paz at 12.30 on the 27th July. The bus was packed with locals, no tourists but us!! i have never seen so much stuff loaded into and on top of a bus. by the time we left it was nearer 1.30pm!!

The bus journey was an experience, not only seeing some of the disgusting habits local people have: spitting in the isle of the bus, throwing masses of rubbish out the window etc - but the narrow and bumpy road was scary!!! Especially when reversing in the dark to let oncoming traffic pass..
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We eventually arrive 22hours later, having slept very little, with very numb bums and one very hungry Terry.

The town of Rurrenabaque is the main base where pampas and jungle trips leave from. Bigger than we expected, lots of locals and more tour agencies than mosquitos!
Rurrenabaque..
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We found a nice looking hostel and check in as our tour doesnt start till the morning and we need sleep!!
Not to dwell on this but as Terry paid and i used the toilet, someone stole Terry's backpack from the doorway of our room. Obviously we were very upset... it had our camera, I-pods, Terry's reading glasses, sunglasses and clothes, and our toiletries including mossie repellent!! The police were about as useful as a chocolate teapot - no infact worse - not even a report incase we wanted to claim.
So that afternoon we went shopping for essentials and even though it had put a downer on things we tried to cheer ourselves up. We bumped into some friends we met in Quito and watched the opening ceremony of the olympics and had some dinner.

Day 1 of Pampas tour
we left Rurrenabaque at around 8.30 in a 4x4 that drove us to the Beni River to meet our guide.
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The 3 hour ride was bumpy but gave us a chance to meet the others in our group. A girl and 2 guys from News Zealand and Aus and a Swiss couple.

After lunch we took a 3 hour boat ride
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There were hundreds and hundreds of aligators (caiman)..
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and turtles, storks, herons and paradise birds along the way..
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then we arrived at our lodge..
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where we had a few hours to relax in the hammocks looking out at the aligators
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That evening we saw the sunset
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and after dinner went back out on the boat with our torches to spot the nocturnal wildlife. Aligators eyes glow in the dark, it was spooky to see so many and just listen to all the noises as we floated down the river.

Day 2
After an interesting sleep... i thought it was rain - but later informed that it was the monkeys peeing and pooing on our roof!!!
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We put on our wellies and went walking in the swamp grassland to search for snakes... anaconda's. apparently they are not poisionous - they just squeeze you to death :(
The swamp was almost knee deep, and Terry picked up wellies with holes - so was everso over joyed to be trekking through muddy water!!
The walk was not without reward however, as indeed we found an anaconda - was about 2meters long (so just a small one thank goodness)
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After lunch we went back out on the boat for a spot of Piranha fishing. the fishing rods were obviously the latest technology - a piece of wood, wire and a hook!
I was very impressed with Terry's fishing skills as he caught at least 5 which was the most in the group (including the guide).
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On the way back to the lodge we came across a good spot to watch the sunset, the boys showed off there talents playing football, (Terry would like me to share that he scored the winning goal - and i missed it)!! we also found some beers to smuggle back to the lodge!!

That evening, as well as a very good spread of food
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paranha's were also on the menu...
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After dinner we drank beer and played cards with Pip, Mark and Andre until it was too dark to see - even with our torches!
Day 3
The main event of today was the swimming with pink river dolphins. As nice as this sounds if you imagine brown muddy water, with crocodiles and piranha's - not to mention the flies and parasites - there was absolutely no way Terry or I were jumping in!!!
A few mad people did. And sure enough we found some dolpfins - not a pretty as normal blue water dolpfins....
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On the way back to lodge we saw lots more wildlife, including tucan's
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and despite being the worlds largest rodent - my favourite - capybaras (or as i call them - large guinea-pigs) So cute...
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After a great three days of pure wildlife and back to basics in our lodge, it was time to head back to Rurrenabaque.
Once back we checked into a different hostel and enjoyed a lovely hot shower (i wish it was freezing)!!

We met up with the guys from the tour that evening for pizza and cocktails. A good end to a fantastic trip.

The next morning (after a trip to the french bakery) we headed to airport for our flight back to La Paz.
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There were 7 other people on our flight! 9 empty seats. The flight was actually fine - just a little turbulance. much quicker and less painfully scary than the bus!!

After a long 5 days it was nice to return to our hostel in La Paz for familiar surroundings, a comfy bed and a HOT shower!!

Posted by becs and terry 09:36 Archived in Bolivia

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